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Ultrasonic Cleaners | The Garage Journal

Author: Jeremiah

Jul. 21, 2025

19 0 0

Tags: Service Equipment

Ultrasonic Cleaners | The Garage Journal

I figure the best way to restore hardware is run it through a vibratory tumbler first to knock off the corrosion and scale, then use the ultrasonic to get the grease. Does this make sense? I've got a LOT of hardware coming off the charger I can't replace so I'd like to restore wherever possible. Is there any step missing?
I figure the best way to restore hardware is run it through a vibratory tumbler first to knock off the corrosion and scale, then use the ultrasonic to get the grease. Does this make sense? I've got a LOT of hardware coming off the charger I can't replace so I'd like to restore wherever possible. Is there any step missing?

I would use the ultrasonic first to get rid of the grease so it doesn't contaminate the tumbler media. I also have that HF USC for the same purpose. What I do is soak the parts in a degreaser to clean as much grime as possible (I use everything from Superclean, Kerosene, WD40, depending on the situation) then put the parts in the ultrasonic (usually in a container of kerosene) to give them a good deep clean.

I've had mine for about 4 years and it's held up just fine. Use it for lots of small parts, fasteners, carburetors, jets, etc.

I don't use a media tumbler but that seems like a good idea
I figure the best way to restore hardware is run it through a vibratory tumbler first to knock off the corrosion and scale, then use the ultrasonic to get the grease. Does this make sense? I've got a LOT of hardware coming off the charger I can't replace so I'd like to restore wherever possible. Is there any step missing?

Yes sir i use the vibratory tumblr second also got that at HF it was the biggest benchtop unit they had. So far zero complaints on that also its held up very well. Use media i bought at menards in that.
I have the same one. It works well with a 50/50 solution of simple green and water. One tip, seal the joint at the top of the metal tub to prevent liquid from getting down into the electronics. I used RTV silicine.

Thanks for the tip never thought about it till you mentioned it going out to do it now while its empty and dry. Those little bench top US cleaners are limited but may work for your application. I use commercial US cleaners we had made and have provisions for heat and filtration.
Since our production has been send outside the USA now I had couple of 6' US benches I couldn't give away. If I had room I would have taken them.

US come in various frequencies, average is 40 kHz. More aggressive would be 30 kHz, higher Frequencies will be finer implosions.

Simple green will work 50-50 but it will work better with hot water. Some of the better Branson little benchtops ($) come with heat and timers but I don't recall any with filtration.

Important with these tanks is to never start them dry or very low you will burn out the transducers on the bottom of the tank in no time. Since these are Chinese made they probably are no where the quality level of the USA ones so I would expect the performance among them will vary. Be careful not to stack parts too tight either as the sound waves may be blocked. Use SS or glass to hold parts, plastic will block the waves.
Is the HF (larger) unit powerful enough to excite the solution in a smaller container set in the USC bath?

I've heard it's a way to clean with different chemicals without ever changing the regular bath--but to my eyes the action inside the cup is noticeably less than outside.

I could be doing it wrong...

I often use a pickle jar with solution in it to clean tiny screws and other bits that are more easily lost in the main tank. I fill the jar with hot solution from the main tank, put the parts in and set it back in the tank. When done I can lift it out and use a magnet tool to pull out all the little bits, nice and clean.

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