The Ultimate Buyer's Guide for Purchasing Hand Held Profile Wheels

2 Things To Consider When Buying New Wheels

Changing your wheels for a set of new ones or switching from steel rims to alloys involves a lot of precise measurements and consideration. The following aspects will enable you to decide on the right set of wheels for your vehicle.

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Wheel Size

There are two ways of choosing a wheel size. The simpler and more straightforward method is to go for the same size as stock wheels so you can use the same tires as well. This way you simply have to refer to your tire size and buy rims matching to original size. You can refer to this guide on how to read tire sidewall specifications. The second method involves taking various measurements to get the perfect fitment wheels and tires for your vehicle. If performing the measurements yourself, make sure to remove the tire from the wheel first as they need to be made with the tire uninstalled for accurate readings. You need to be familiar with the terms associated with wheels and various dimensions so that the wheel and tire fit correctly within the wheel well.

Wheel Diameter

The first thing to measure is the wheel diameter, which is measured across the face of the wheel, excluding the wheel lips (which are only used to hold the tire in place). Diameters for rims can vary from 10 inches all the way up to 30 inches. When choosing a larger wheel diameter it is important to understand that the tire sizes need to be altered to maintain the same overall diameter of the wheel and tire combined. This is done to maintain the factory’s overall diameter, which is the height of the wheel and tire combined. The speedometer, ABS, traction control, depends on this overall height to work properly. Deviating from the overall tire diameter by installing larger diameter wheels with the same size tires can cause these systems to malfunction and puts the vehicle and driver at risk.

Wheel Width

The width of the wheel determines the contact patch of the tire. An overly wide wheel can cause issues while mounting by contacting the fender, suspension, steering, or brake components. While an increased contact patch is good for handling, it can cause hydroplaning which can reduce vehicles’ ability to drive over wet roads along with reduced snow traction. When increasing the wheel diameter you also need to increase the width of the wheel and get appropriate tires for the width. The tire sidewalls bear the weight of the vehicle and mounting narrow tires on wider wheels below the safe tire width can cause the sidewalls to collapse.

Wheel Offset And Backspacing

The wheel offset is the distance from the hub mounting surface to the centerline of the width of the wheel. There are three types of wheel offsets: Negative, Positive, and Zero. Generally, cars come with zero or slightly negative offset wheels. A slight variation in the offset (≤1 inch) can increase handling characteristics, but major deviations can cause serious problems. It is important to choose the right wheel offset as it can alter suspension geometries and induce extra stress on various suspension, steering, and driveline components. Increasing the offset can also result in tire or wheel rubbing, which means the tire or wheel can contact the components found under the fender. To learn more about wheel offset and how to calculate it you can refer to our wheel offset article. Backspacing is the distance from the mounting hub to the back-end face of the wheel. Having too little backspace can hinder braking components to be mounted properly whereas increasing the backspace too much can cause similar issues to overly offset wheels.

Bolt Pattern

One of the most important things to consider is the bolt pattern. It is the number of studs or nuts the wheel has and the pattern or configuration it is arranged in. It is also referred to as PCD or Pitch Circle Diameter. Without the right bolt pattern, you cannot mount the wheel to your car, so matching the bolt pattern to your factory wheels is necessary. You can find the bolt pattern specification on the wheel or the vehicle owner’s manual. It usually comes as two numbers, for example, 5×160; where 5 is the number of bolts and 160 is the distance in mm between the center point of two bolts. You can find more information regarding the wheel bolt pattern and how to calculate it in this guide.

Hub-Centric

Factory rims are hub-centric, which means the wheel is precisely mounted on the hub. In a hub-centric connection, the weight of the vehicle is supported by the hub and wheel and not the lug nuts. The lug nuts merely secure the wheel to the hub mounting plate. Always choose wheels with a hub-centric connection as it eliminates the chance of lug nut shearing and the subsequent vibrations as well as safety hazards.

Lug Nut Style And Stud Length

The lug nuts and bolts are often overlooked, but they hold a lot of importance. Lug nuts come in different sizes and styles like hex, mag type hex, hex spherical seat, hex conical seat, etc. The lug stud length can also vary depending on the size of the wheel and hub plate. Choose the right type, size, and style of lug nut and bolt for your rims to ensure precise and sturdy mounting.

3 Plus Sizing

Increasing the size of the wheel diameter and wheel width is termed as Plus Sizing and decreasing wheel diameter is called Minus Sizing. Plus sizing the tire can increase your handling and steering responses and aid driving dynamics. The look of low-profile tires is extremely popular, as it can drastically up the visual appeal of any car. The lower-profile tires are paired with larger diameter wheels to complete the sporty look. 

There are a few rules to be followed when picking new wheel sizes to ensure the product fits in your vehicle. Plus sizing only works if you maintain the overall tire diameter to the factory-installed tires to ensure the various systems like ABS, traction control, speedometer, etc. work properly. This is because the overall tire diameter is used to calculate the rotational speed and increasing or decreasing the diameter can change the readings. The mechanical driveline gearing also depends on the overall tire diameter and any changes can induce more stress on the components leading to imminent failure so it is essential to maintain the original tire diameter.

To carry out plus sizing you must select O.E. equivalent tire diameters and load capacities and combine wider, lower-profile tires with wider, larger diameter wheels. This ensures the accuracy of the vehicle’s speed-dependent systems remains consistent while providing improved responsiveness, reduced braking distances, and increased stability.

The rule is that for every 1-inch increase in wheel diameter, the tire width is increased by 10 millimeters and the tire sidewall height is decreased by 5 to 10 percent. 

For example, if your original tire specification is 235/50R16 and you wish to upgrade to 17-inch alloys, you will have to choose a tire with specification – 245/45R17 or 245/40R17. It is a good idea to calculate the overall height of the original and the new tire and wheel package so that you buy the right tire size. To calculate the overall height of the tire and wheel assembly, you can refer to our tire size calculator article. You can also learn more about how to read tire sidewall specifications here.

Increasing one inch in wheel diameter is called “Plus One”. ”Plus Two” and “Plus Three” are also common upgrades, especially on modern vehicles. The same rule must be followed for “Plus Two” and “Plus Three” fitments by simply multiplying the variables by 2 or 3.

There may be a small difference in the overall diameter by order of +/- a few tenths of an inch. But these small variations are negligible and do not affect the system. The results are a negligible +/- four-tenths of an mph speedometer variance.

Minus sizing is done on off-road and heavy-duty tires to gain larger rubber sidewall height and reduce the wheel diameter. This is especially useful in off-road vehicles where the larger rubber compound helps absorb the uneven terrain and prevents wheel damage. Minus sizing is also commonly done on winter tires which are usually spare tires only used in the winter months.

5 FAQs

Q) Can I Put Wider Tires On My Stock Rims?

It is possible to add wider tires on stock rims or wheels. You can add (or even reduce) a maximum of 20 mm to the tire width for any given wheel. The manufacturer usually installs the “ideal tire width” for the given rim. You can refer to the tire width chart below to get an idea of how wide tires you can fit on your rims. For example, for an 8-inch wide rim or wheel, there are three possible tire widths you can fit – 215 mm, 225 mm, 235 mm, and 245 mm. 215 mm is the minimum safe tire width. 225 or 235 mm is the ideal tire width and 245 is the maximum tire width you can install on an 8-inch rim.

Tire Width Chart 

Q) How Do You Know What Size Tire To Get For Your Rims?

There are three measurements necessary for any tire – tire section width, tire sidewall height, and wheel diameter. The tire section width can be determined using the wheel width and referring to the tire width chart. To get the right tire sidewall height ratio, you need to keep in mind the original tire diameter and calculate the overall height of the tire and wheel assembly accordingly. Refer to the tire size calculator to learn how to calculate the overall tire diameter.

Q) What Offset Rim Do I Need?

It is usually recommended to stick to the OE wheel offset spec which can be found engraved on the tire after the letter ‘ET’. To find the right wheel offset for your wheel, you need to refer to the wheel offset chart available in our wheel offset guide.

Q) Do I Have To Get New Tires With New Rims?

If you have upsized your wheels to a larger diameter then you will have to change the tires to match the wheel diameter. If you have only increased rim width then you need to make sure the tire width falls within the recommended tire width settings. For example, if you had an 8-inch wheel on a 235/40R17 and swapped them for wider 9-inch wheels then you can still fit the tire on the same wheel as it meets the minimum tire width for the wheel (according to the tire width chart). However, if you had a 225/45R17 tire then you will need to get wider tires to match the wider wheels.

Q) How To Find Your Vehicles Bolt Pattern?

For wheels with 4, 6, and 8 bolts finding the bolt pattern number is simple. Just measure the distance between the center of two opposite holes. For 5 and 7 lugs, the measurement is not that simple. To get an estimate you can measure from the center of one lug to the outer edge of the lug that is farthest away. Alternatively, you can find the correct bolt pattern in your owner’s manual.

With a long list of tangible benefits, it's no surprise optimising rolling stock is one of the most popular modifications undertaken by riders. The wheels on your bike literally keep you moving and have a considerable impact on your ride quality. Sure the drivetrain will push you along, and the frame will also have a significant impact on ride quality, but the wheels are the first element of the bike to feel road vibrations, surface imperfections and changes in terrain.

One of the most important traits of a wheelset is its role in transferring your efforts on the bike to an outcome on the road, so matching the right wheels for your riding style is important, as is having a reliable set that still offers sound levels of performance.

So before you go shelling out for a shiny new set of hoops, give this buyer's guide a read for everything you need to know about road bike wheels.

Anatomy of a wheel

A bicycle wheel consists of four main components, all of which have an influence on weight, performance, and durability. Upgrading (or downgrading) these components can affect the ride quality, your effort output (speed) and braking performance so it's worth knowing a little about each, and how that relates to improved performance on the road.

• Rim: The wheel's rim sits on the outside of the wheel and has two main functions; to hold the tyre and provide a braking surface (for rim-brake bikes, not disc-equipped bikes). The rim width will affect the tyre width which could have a significant impact on rider comfort, and the material of braking surface will impact braking performance.

• Hub: The hub sits at the centre and provides the axis of rotation. Within each hub, front and back, is the axle which attaches the wheel to the bike. On the rear wheel the hub features splines which a cassette attaches to. The bike's chain wraps around the sprockets of the cassette, and in association with the crankset and shifters, forms the bikes drivetrain which propels it forward. As well as propelling the bike forward, all road bike wheels (excluding fixed-wheel bikes) will use a rear hub with a 'freehub' mechanism which allows the bike to coast.

• Spokes: Material that connects the hub and rim. The number of spokes will vary between front and rear wheels, the rear often featuring more spokes to improve strength and stiffness. More spokes typically means a stronger wheel but that comes with a weight penalty. Spokes are made from varying materials and come in different shapes to either optimise strength or improve aerodynamics, sometimes both. Most commonly spokes are made with steel wire, but can vary greatly in shape and diameter.

• Nipples: Spokes attach to the wheel via a special nut called a 'nipple'. Nipples are important for adjusting spoke tension which will 'true' a wheel, making it straight when spun.

What makes a good wheel?

Choosing a good wheel will depend largely on its intended purpose, however whilst difficult to nail all aspects, ideally a good set of wheels will be durable, have dependable hubs, provide confidence inspiring braking, be stiff for power transfer, yet also be lightweight.

• Lightweight wheels keep rotating weight down by having a shallow rim profile and low spoke count. As well as reducing overall weight, a fringe benefit of this is comfort. Deeper wheels are fast but the ride quality is often described as 'harsh', conversely lightweight wheels often provide good levels of compliance. Quality lightweight wheelsets will typically be below 1,400 grams, some extremely lightweight wheelsets coming in under 1,000grams for the pair!

• Aerodynamic wheels aim to be as fast as possible by reducing drag. Aerodynamic wheels are typically greater than 40mm deep at the rim and are becoming wider as well. This speed does come at a cost with deep-section wheels more susceptible to crosswinds which can make them difficult to handle, and the extra material does add weight.

Wheelsets not so focused on performance commonly have features which make them more appropriate for everyday use or general training. The braking surface is aluminium providing better performance in all weather conditions when compared to carbon fibre, higher spoke counts are used to aid strength, and rim width is wider to cater for larger tyres. As a result of these features, weight increases with quality wheelsets typically ranging from 1,500 - 1,800 grams.

Wheelsets designed for loaded touring or to withstand regular use under heavier riders (120kg +) are typically hand built with higher spoke counts of 32 or even 36 spokes. With the extra strength, wheels in this form typically weigh in excess of 1,900 grams.

Rim material

Most entry to intermediate level wheels will feature aluminium rims of varying quality, while high level wheels will typically feature rims made of carbon fibre which reduces the weight while increasing stiffness.

Aluminium as a rim material provides better braking performance than carbon fibre, which tends to perform poorly in the wet and on long descents as heat builds up under braking. Based on this, some brands offer an aluminium braking surfaces fitted to a carbon fibre rim. It’s worth noting however that these designs are typically heavier than a single-material rim.

Braking: Rim or disc

The shift to disc brakes has well and truly begun and is quickly becoming a new norm on road bikes. Moving away from rim and conventional caliper braking affords manufacturers some experimentation when it comes to both frame and wheel design as well as the obvious benefits of increased stopping power.

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Wheelsets that use disc brakes don't need to have a brake track or confirm to a specific width in order to fit into tight fork and frame clearances. As a result, wheelsets for disc equipped bikes can have a modified profile to improve aerodynamics and performance. The drawback is that wheelsets for disc equipped bikes will have to be stronger to contend with the additional braking forces, meaning more spokes and specific hubs, which could potentially offset any weight saving or other performance gains. However, weight saved at the outside of the wheel (rim) has a far more noticeable impact on how light it rides than weight closer to the hub.

A huge benefit is the performance of carbon wheels, which traditionally have poor braking when compared to wheels with an aluminium brake track. Disc brakes allow for the performance benefits of carbon wheels to be maintained (or improved upon) without reducing the braking performance.

Wheels designed for use with disc brakes should not be confused with aerodynamic 'disc' wheels which form a single piece from hub to rim in the effort to reduce wind turbulence in time trial racing events.

Wheel dimensions: width and depth

A wheel's rim width and depth will largely dictate how it rides and feels.

The trend is for modern rims to be wider, resulting in better aerodynamics and improved comfort through greater tyre air volume. This coincides with the shift to larger tyres that are said to improve (lower) rolling resistance as well as comfort by running at a lower pressure.

Rim width can either be measured internally or externally, which potentially provides some confusing numbers. Typically, if a brand refers to a number followed by a ‘C’, this is an internal measurement. By current standards, a narrow road rim when measured internally is anything under 15mm, while a wide rim is anything measured internally greater than 17mm. When measuring externally, anything under 19mm is considered narrow while anything over 22mm can be considered wide.

While closely interrelated, the external rim width will mostly influence the wheels aerodynamics, while the internal rim width will influence comfort, rolling efficiency or tyre shape.

The depth of the rim will affect the aerodynamics of the wheel and the handling of a bike. Generally the deeper the rim, the more aerodynamic, but also the harder to handle given they will be more affected by side wind than a shallow rim. The extra material required will also create a harsher ride, not offering as much compliance as a shallower wheel. It's worth noting that not all deep rims are created equally, and the exact profile varies greatly between brands. The best options manage to achieve fast speeds while being well controlled in cross winds.

Deep-section wheels will typically measure at least 40mm from the rim to the nipple, some extending to over 80mm.

Spokes

The total number, shape and material of the spokes on a wheel will vary. High spoke counts (having a lot of spokes) increase the robustness and durability but come with a weight penalty. Spokes come in a variety of materials, including steel, aluminium, carbon fibre and titanium. Steel spokes are by far the most common.

The spoke count of front and rear wheels will vary, rear wheels having more spokes as more forces are applied (drive forces and additional weight load). Typically a lightweight front wheel will have between 18-24 spokes, while the rear wheel will have between 20-28 spokes. This is in stark contrast to the early days of wheel building when front wheels would have over 30 spokes, and rear wheels would have over 40. As materials and manufacturing processes have improved, spokes counts have gone down, reducing weight without compromising performance.

A flat spoke, often referred to as a 'bladed spoke', can provide some small aerodynamic gains over a rounded one. Although more expensive, bladed spokes also help to reduce weight without sacrificing strength.

Normal spokes are either 'straight pull' or 'J-bend'. 'Straight pull' spokes have no bend at the head and require specific hubs, 'J-bend' spokes are the more traditional option, featuring a 90 degree bend at the hub end which looks like a 'J'.

Benefits of the straight pull spokes are; more precise alignment, stiffer, more responsive wheel, and a decrease in weight. The drawback of straight pull spokes is that many companies make proprietary spokes and hubs which means sourcing a replacement spoke can be time consuming and potentially expensive. J-bend spokes are often easier to replace and perform close to straight pull spokes in terms of quality and strength.

Butting or 'butted' is a term you'll come across if looking at round spokes. Simply put, butting is the process of varying the thickness, and so a double butted spoke would offer two different diameters along its length. Butted spokes are typically stronger and more durable than 'straight gauge (one diameter) spokes as they help dissipate stress fatigue better.

Freehub

The freehub is found on the rear wheel hub and performs two functions: to drive the rear wheel and allow it to coast. A fixed hub also drives the rear wheel but doesn't have the ability to coast, requiring you to pedal the whole time the bike is moving.

Manufacturers have different freehubs so be sure to check your gears are compatible. Shimano and Campagnolo freehubs both use a spline system to connect the cassette to the freehub, but the diameter and spline-type differs, meaning they are not compatible. SRAM cassettes will work with Shimano freehubs, but not with Campagnolo.

The majority of new wheels being sold are 11-speed compatible which feature a wider freehub body to handle the wider spacing of 11-speed cassettes. With the simple use of a washer, these are backwards compatible with 8, 9 and 10-speed cassettes too. However, older 8, 9 or 10-speed hubs cannot fit an 11-speed cassette (except Campagnolo wheels/cassettes).

Bearings

As cost of the wheelset goes up so does the quality of components used. In the case of bearings inside the hub, they typically go from steel to ceramic. A good ceramic bearing is rounder, smoother and harder than an equivalent steel bearing, therefore reducing friction and improving performance as a result. However, a good steel bearing will typically outlast and outperform a cheap ceramic bearing.

As well as the material of the bearings, proper lubrication will influence how they roll and the amount of friction that is produced. Friction in the bearings reduces performance and slows the wheels down. Excessive friction occurs if the bearings aren't appropriately lubricated, if debris or other substances get into the bearings, or if the bearings are flushed of their lubricant by high pressure washes. Here, higher quality hubs offer improved sealing from the elements, which keeps them rolling smoother, for longer.

The lower the viscosity of the lubricant, the less friction, but durability may be compromised as a result.

Bearings are either cartridge (sealed) or loose ball (cup and cone). The cartridge or sealed system features an inner and outer race, with the bearings sitting in between them, all enclosed within a single unit. The cartridge bearing is then pressed into the hub shell with the axle going through the middle. A sealed bearing is a single unit, if it wears out, replacement of the whole bearing cartridge is required, but fairly cheap to do so.

Loose ball or cup and cone bearings are most commonly found on Shimano products and entry-level wheels. Cup and cone bearings have multiple pieces and loose bearings. They are not enclosed like cartridge bearings, instead loose ball bearings are sandwiched between a fixed outer race (usually part of the hub shell), with an adjustable cone shaped inner race threaded onto the axle. If the bearings are worn too far, they can wear the hub surfaces causing enough damage to require complete replacement of the hub. On the positive side, they're easy to maintain to prevent this from happening. To service such a hub, you’ll need a couple of special thin spanners known as ‘cone wrenches’.

Tyre types

It's worth knowing the three different tyre types that fit onto a wheel as they require a specific rim. Tyres will either be 'clincher', 'tubular' or 'tubeless' and the wheel will specify which tyre it is compatible with. The majority of road bikes available for sale will feature clincher tyres which need an inner tube to hold air.

Clincher

The most common form of tyre currently used on road bikes. Unless stated, it's a fair assumption that any new bike bought will feature clincher tyres. Clincher tyres require a tube to inflate and hold air, while the tyre will feature either a steel or kevlar fiber bead on it's edge to hold it in the rim.

Tubular

Tubulars also use an inner tube but in a very different way. The inner tube of a tubular tyre is sewn directly to the tyre, which is then glued or stuck directly onto the rim. Professional racers almost exclusively use tubular tyres thanks to their reduced weight, enhanced rolling resistance and road feel. In case of a flat tyre, tubulars can also be ridden on with relatively little risk of the tyre rolling from the rim.

The drawback to tubular tyres is the extensive work it takes to first apply the tyre to the rim and the laborious task of replacing the tyre should you get a flat. Add in the price of such tyres and it’s certainly an item best kept for the dedicated racer.

Tubeless

Tubeless tyres have long been used in mountain biking and are slowly making their way into the road bike world. Trek has equipped ‘tubeless ready’ rims on the majority of its road bikes since and Giant exclusively features tubeless tyres on high-end models as of .

As the name suggests, tubeless tyres require no inner tube, and instead attach to a specific rim design that creates an airtight seal. It's a technology very similar to that found in modern cars and motorbikes.

Tubeless tyres are considered superior to clincher tyres because they create less friction which improves rolling resistance, can be run at a lower pressure improving comfort, and are said to offer better puncture protection. To prevent punctures, tubeless tyres can be used with liquid sealant which can be inserted into the tyre to help immediately seal small punctures if they occur. For more on tyre types, how they impact road performance and how to choose the right one, check out our ultimate guide to road bike tyres.

Factory vs hand built

Although technically many 'factory built' wheels are built by hand, the characteristics of each wheel set are very different.

Factory built wheels are mass produced to exact specifications and very often have proprietary spoke and rim designs. They are designed to be bought off the shelf or paired with a manufacturer's bike. Extensive research, development and marketing means these wheels dominate this space. Examples of these includes wheels from Shimano, Mavic, Fulcrum and Zipp.

Conversely, hand built wheels are unique, featuring individual hubs, spokes, nipples and rims that are made to order. Hand built wheels are custom creations to suit a riders exact preferences and needs.

Wheel maintenance

• 'True' wheels: True refers to your wheel tracking in a straight line without deviation. If your wheel is out of true it may rub on your brakes or negatively affect the bike’s handling. Adjusting spoke tension is a process to true your wheel that any local bike shop can do.

• Change your brake pads: Worn brake pads will reduce braking performance and could potentially damage your rims, or yourself if they fail to work. Changing your brake pads is a simple procedure on most bikes that you can do yourself with a small allen key and a new set of brake pads.

• Clean your bearings: Your hub bearings may need to be cleaned out and repacked with grease on a semi-regular basis. The exact time frame will depend on the quality of your hubs, how much you ride and the conditions you ride in. Unless you are proficient with bike maintenance this is one job probably best left with your local bike shop, but be sure to mention it to them when you take it in for its regular service if you think it may be affecting your wheels performance.

• Inspect the rim: Every time you brake with rim brakes the rim wears. This friction will eventually cause thinning in the rim, which, if left unattended to could weaken the structural integrity of the wheel. To avoid this, regularly inspect the rim to check for any clear grooving and keep an eye on the rim wear indicators that are usually either a small hole or groove in the rim to show how much material remains.

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