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There's a good chance one of our regulars linked you here for help. If you're new, welcome to Tundras.com, stick around, but be sure to read the very brief

This thread initially started as one giant collective dump of info to get you off on the right foot, covering the super-critical stuff to watch out for when buying a FGT/1GT (aka '1st Gen Tundra'). There's some general things to know, a few quirks and anomalies you'll find, stuff that generates new and repetitive posts. It'll be updated periodically, as needed.

When buying or hunting for a 1GT truck, there's one single most-important thing to know:

FRAME RUST, FRAME RUST, FRAME RUST, rust in general...

• NEVER buy a 1GT without thoroughly and I mean thoroughly inspecting the frame. Seriously. Can't stress this enough. So many people have come to this forum after getting totally sodomized by shady sellers, gaping holes in frames, cracked frames, can't pass local inspection, all because they didn't know to check the frame, bought the truck in another state w/o seeing the frame, trusted the seller who said it was a "southern truck", then paid for freight to ship it. At minimum, they're out the freight to ship it back, some have just had to eat everything or file suit. If you choose to continue with purchase without thoroughly checking the frame, there's nobody to blame but yourself. There's not many frame repair parts out there, DIY repairs add up, and DIY frame swaps can be tedious and expensive too.
• The above is true regardless

  where

  you're buying the truck or what the seller tells you about where it lived its whole life. We've seen California and Arizona frames rusty as hell because a previous commuted to, adventured in, or worked in Utah a lot. Keep a close eye out for rust where the X-shaped crossmember above the spare tire intersects the long framerails. Check at the shock and leaf spring mounts. Check inside each framerail, towards the rear of the cab, where Toyota riveted in extra frame stiffeners, make sure they're not warped/flaking. Bring a hammer and tap on it. If you see significant rust, BAIL (or post ample pics asking if it's bad).
• There was a frame recall on earlier models. Toyota is still issuing new frames

  but

  ONLY IF a previous owner

  didn't

  opt for Toyota to coat their frames (which only made them rust from the inside out). We don't know how long Toyota will continue offering this service. More info on this in the Recalls, TSBs, and Annoyances section way down below.
• There are some shady ass MF'ers out there. Shiny black frames are a red flag someone is trying to cover up a rust problem. The frame should be hazy/dull/maybe eggshell black, but

  not

  shiny. Very smooth, no bumps and pimples along the frame. Even the original dealer-applied coatings would be dull after a couple of years, so there's really no reason to be seeing shiny stuff on these frames unless someone recently had it replaced.
• Another red flag would be rust on bolts, clamps, and other hardware in the engine bay, which is common for trucks in road salted areas. Just one of those little things you can keep an eye out for.
• Be sure to check the cab mounts for rust also. It's possible (but not "easy") to swap the cab mounts. This thread may help if you need to.

Important considerations for mileage/engine related stuff

• These aren't your average trucks, they easily go 400k-500k+ miles without any rebuilding, just regular maintenance. We're not dealing with a Ford, Dodge, or GM truck. You shouldn't need to worry about replacing the transmission after 100k miles, or even 200k or 300k. Nor rebuild the engine after the same. Regular maintenance is all you want to look for, get as much history as you can. Don't be afraid of what would normally be considered "high" mileage. It's perfectly normal to buy a 1GT with 200k-300k miles and be OK with that.
• To that point, DO be concerned about LOW mile 'grandpa'/'virgin' trucks. It's NOT necessarily a 'good' thing and you'd be wise if low mileage was NOT a priority during your hunt. Why? At the ripe age of 15-20 years old, the sweet initial break-in range for these trucks is really around the 125k-175k miles, i.e. at least 8k-10k miles per year. Trust me, I have a low mileage truck, as do other members. Most who've dared to show their low-mile heads, it looks like someone dumped varnish into them at best, and at at worst, are a black gooey mess under the valve covers. Meanwhile, the guys with 400k miles have heads that are nice, silver, shiny, pristine. Bottom line: Engines

  hate

  short-trip driving, and short-trip driving is

  exactly

  how you end up being a low-mile 15-20 year old truck. Trucks that saw mostly short-trip-driving have problems of neglect/atrophy, like shrunken gaskets and seals, charred or varnished heads, potentially crusty wiring and internals, yet everything else looks great outside. Expect leaks, expect to replace cam seals and valve cover gaskets, and depending on what you find, you'll probably need to do some short-interval oil change cycles or gasket-safe flushes to clean up that mess.
• TIMING BELT.

  This is a huge one

  . If the rubber timing belt snaps, your interference engine is TOAST. Toyota recommends changing every 9yrs

  or

  90k miles. Sure, you can maybe get away with 100k, 120k, or ride for 15 years without changing it, we've seen it before. We've even had a few members here make it to 200k on what we believe

  could

  If you are looking for more details, kindly visit UNIMETONE.

  Additional resources:
  Customer ratings & reviews be the original belt. However, we've also seen at least one member with barely 100k miles snap a belt that'd never been changed because they, nor previous owners, bothered to change it. If there's no recorded evidence of a timing belt change, you'll want to take a 10mm ratchet and pop off whichever timing cover is easier and inspect the belt. Don't drive on it if it's got cracks, it could be your last ride on that engine. Even if there's a sticker under the hood on a new-to-you truck indicating the belt was changed, it's worth taking 5 minutes to pop off a timing cover and checking it. Those stickers only cost a couple bucks online, anyone can slap one on as a selling point. Expect to pay ~$1k to properly replace your belt with OEM (i.e. Aisin or Denso brand) parts, plus or minus a couple hundred bucks depending on who is doing it. Aim for someone that specializes in Toyota, and know many dealerships will charge anywhere from 20%-40% more than private shops. This is one place you don't want to use 3rd party parts, and be sure to change the water pump and pulleys while in there.
• There was an issue in the earlier models (00-02?) with the planetary gear grenading if you tow in OD. This is rare, but it has happened enough a thread or two around here exists (one example). Tundras aren't the only Toyota model impacted by similar issues.

Cab types and why it matters:

• There are 3 cab types for the 1GT: Access Cab ("AC"), Regular Cab ("RC"), Double Cab ("DC"). This is such a key piece of info when asking for advice or help, so be sure you update the truck info in your forum user profile to indicate which cab type you have (and engine, and drivetrain). It'll help others more-easily help you and give advice.
• DC trucks didn't come into existence until late 2003 for the 2004 model year.
• AC trucks were the only ones offered with a stepside bed, starting in late 2002 for the 2003 year. DC and RC trucks never got one. Bed sizes are different between AC/RC/DC, so this isn't an interchangeable thing. More on bed sizes a few points down.
• RC/AC trucks are very similar to one another frame-wise, door-wise, fender/headlight/bumper-wise, fender flares, bedsides, and in many other ways - lots of interchangeable parts. DC trucks are more closely related to the Sequoia, sharing many same part/body characteristics, and the DC has a taller bedside, which may be a consideration for those with accessibility issues. Frames, doors, beds, headlights, and many other parts DO NOT interchange between DC trucks and their AC/RC counterparts.
• Frame-wise, AC and RC can interchange as long as the engine/drivetrain matches. If your DC frame is rusted out, you're stuck hunting for another DC frame with the same drivetrain.
• Rear axle shot, and you need to get a replacement? Stick with your general year and cab type. The DC axle housing is is different width than AC/RC. Likewise, the Sequoia rear has discs and different provisions. This can make replacing your rear axle housing a bit tricky.
• A lot of wiring is different between the cab types. AC/RC are similar in many respects, very minor differences. DC/Seuqoia are similar.
• RC didn't come with a rear power window. Some AC came with a horizontal 3pc slider window. DC is the only truck that came with a rear 1pc vertical power window. Likewise, only DC came with a sunroof.
• Only DC came with the overhead console that has time/outside temperature and/or compass. No, that overhead console

  won't

  fit in an AC or RC truck without significantly modifying the headliner (at least) and rewiring your truck from the fusebox to roof. Yes, if you have a DC but no overhead console, chances are the wiring for that special console is tucked up in your headliner, check for it.
• RC trucks all a short ab with a long bed. AC trucks have a longer cab with a shorter bed (6'4"). DC trucks have an extra long cab with the shortest bed (6'2"). Obviously, for these reasons, caps/shells/campers and tonneau covers are not interchangeable between the AC/RC/DC.
• Suspension and wheel/tire offerings fit differently between AC/RC and the DC, so it's generally a bad idea to install the lift you saw on your favorite DC truck onto your AC or RC. Your AC or RC truck is lighter, with slightly different suspension, it'll get way more lift which could push you into the "danger zone" with geometry and seriously screw up something else. Likewise, for tires, DC trucks tend to rub more easily than AC/RC trucks with 32.5 - 33.0" tires.
• Some parts, like steering wheels, wheel/tire combos, etc. can transfer between all cab types. If in doubt, ask.
• AC/RC trucks didn't use chipped immobilizer keys.

  Some

  DC and Sequoia did, but not all. Some have found having a low battery on chipped/immob trucks can result in no-start conditions.

Drivetrains available and other related info:

• You either get a V6 (2 types) or V8 (2UZ-FE). For V6 trucks, it was either 3.4 (5VZ-FE) in 2000-2004, or the 4.0L (1GR-FE) in 2005-2006. The '05-'06 trucks were significantly higher HP/TQ specs, added VVTi, added an a 5th gear in the transmission, and extra emissions in the form of a secondary air injection pump which eventually goes bad for everyone (more info here, bypass kit is available). This extra emissions stuff may be a consideration for some people, it's expensive to replace if you're in an emissions-compliant state.
• 2WD and 4WD were available in all vehicles. V8 only came w/automatic trans, V6 had a manual trans option, which may be interesting for some. Transmission swapping to add manual ... yes, a couple have tried it, yes it's possible, but a massive pain in the ass that's probably going to cost you as much as hunting down and buying a V6 manual truck.
• The '05-'06 trucks had a fully sealed transmission. Prior years don't, you'll see a dipstick. Toyota originally said the sealed transmissions had a "lifetime" fluid. Now they recommend a flush every 100k? 80k? I forget the number, you get the idea. Still, plenty of guys running on the original fluid after 300k+ miles. Most will tell you instead to drain/fill a few times to incrementally add/replace fresh fluid.
• For the love of Pete, if you have a 1GT truck already, go into your profile here and update your truck info to indicate whether it's V8 or V6, 2WD or 4WD, and what cab type you have. It'll save us from asking when you inevitably post looking for help/info.
• 2WD trucks have no grease zerks on the driveline. 4WD trucks DO have grease zerks on the driveline and need to be lubed with moly-fortified NLGI 2 grease every 5k-10k miles unless you like clunks and clonks when braking and accelerating from a dead stop. Note that the slip yoke zerk is special in the method you use to fill it. More info available using the forum search. If you've got no history on your truck, this is one of the first things you'll want to do.
• If you're 4WD and you plan on regearing, this is probably common knowledge, but the front gear ratio must match the rear gear ratio, so you'll be upgrading both.
• Also for 4WD trucks, Toyota recommends logging at least 10-15 miles per month in 4HI to keep things lubed, actuators firing, etc. You really, really want to do this because actuators are expensive af, and tough to diagnose, and tend to get corrosion and pits on the conduit surfaces. Find an open, straight road once a month and throw it in 4HI before hitting 50MPH (you can take it out of 4HI at any speed). In case it needs to be said, DO NOT turn sharply while in 4HI on a Tundra, although Sequoia owners can handle it.
• If you have a LSD (limited slip diff) in the rear, there should be a sticker indicating this on the back of your rear diff/pumpkin. If you see this, be really careful about the product you use when drain/refill time. Search on the forum or ask.

MAINTENACE AND PARTS ... this is a big one

• DO yourself a favor,

  only

  buy OEM replacement (Denso/Aisin brand) parts where possible. DO NOT buy parts on scAmazon or fleaBay, several people have gotten screwed with counterfeit/knockoff parts, you'll find posts here on it. A great way to order parts at a discount from Toyota is outlined here. RockAuto gives forum members a 5% discount. Summit Racing often has 10%-20% off coupons if you sign up for their catalog. Advance Auto Parts typically has 15%-25% coupons online for in-store pickup. You can't always get OEM parts at Advance, but ... at least you'll get legit parts.
• Parts you really

  DO

  NOT

  want to order non-OEM, else you *will* eventually find yourself kicking your own ass: LOWER BALLJOINTS (this is huge). O2 sensors. Starter. Fuel pump. Cam Bolts (another huge one). Lower control arms (another big one). Too many pictures of people who cheaped out on lower balljoints and found their front wheel horizontal, stuffed into their cab.
• Toyota oil and air filters are just about the best you can get. This is counterintuitive to how I was brought up, so not easy for me to type. Toyota invested into making sure their filters are keyed to their drivetrains, likely a key component for upholding their historic reputation for mechanical longevity.

Audio and audio upgrades...

• I'll say this first: DON'T BE A FRIGGIN' DOUCHE. Don't be that asshole who cuts the factory wiring harnesses to install a new stereo. There are a ton of cheap plug-and-play adapter harnesses you can buy. Pony up the extra $10, 20, 30 for an adapter harness here or there.
• These trucks were actually pretty well equipped from the factory, but a lot of them came with a factory/OEM amp you need to bypass when adding aftermarket stereos. Read this thread for more info on the factory amp and where to find it if you have one, and what you need to do to install an aftermarket stereo. There are ways to retain the factory amp if you really want to, but ... just read that thread and its replies. To see what receivers others here are running, read this thread. I think the amp bypass part number is $32 Metra 70-8117 Factory Amplifier Harness for 2004-Up Toyota Vehicles with JBL Sound System Metra 70-8117, but confirm this at Crutchfield or directly at Metra before you commit.
• If you're looking to stuff a sub in the rear of your truck ... RC trucks, you'll need to use a wedge box behind the seat, or an under-seat shallow sub. AC trucks, Q-Logic makes a dual 8" box that goes under the rear passenger seat, replacing the under-seat steel cage. DC trucks, any of the storage cubbies under the rear seats can be repurposed for 8" subs and potentially 10", several people here have done installs with 3 x 8" subs.
• For AC owners, your rear doors have ample room for a 6x9" speaker, if that's your desire. As someone who worked in the industry, I'd take a 6x9" over a 6" component any day, I've seen guys do some pretty amazing stuff w/6x9s.
• Steering wheel controls ... oh boy, that's a loaded topic. If you have them, Axxess makes a very simple adapter you can use (ASWC-1) to adapt the controls to an aftermarket head unit, BUT, please do yourself a favor and buy the Metra control adapter ( $10 70-8114 Steering Wheel Control Wire Harness with RCA for 2003-Up Select Toyota/Scion/Lexus Vehicles 70-8114) to make using it an ultra-plug-and-play experience, it's like $10. If you have an earlier model truck w/o steering wheel controls, it's possible to add them, but you may need a later-model clock spring, you may need to run some extra wires, and the airbag module has a smaller faceplate to make room for the buttons. Later model trucks (04+) it can be a plug-and-play experience. For part numbers and other crap, check this, it'll get you on your way. It's also possible to add the right-hand phone controls, check that last link again.
• For AC/RC trucks, the metal bracket used for the door tweeters can be repurposed to install any number of aftermarket components, example here.
• Consider buying through Crutchfield, not only for the incredible technical support, but they'll also make sure you're loaded up with all the wiring adapters and stuff you need to have the most-plug-and-play experience possible. You can call and talk to them at any point in the install if you have questions. Don't hesitate to call and talk to a technical salesperson to lay out your system! It's free, and they're super knowledgeable, they'll guide you in the right direction. To boot, their pricing is inexpensive - doesn't always beat scAmazon, but you're guaranteed to get non-counterfeit, non-grey market stuff with full, no-hassle warranty and support, which Amazon can't offer.

Lighting and all that stuff...

• If swapping to LED headlights or fog lights, the overwhelming majority of people have problems with high beams and fog lights working unless they purchase and add a resistor on at least one headlight (typically passenger side).
• Hyperflash problems are common after swapping LEDs on the turn signals. This can be solved installing a Diode Dynamics flashers (avoid the scAmazon knock-offs).
• There are H4 projectors available for our trucks, but you'll need to permanently modify the light housing to use them. This involves remove removing the hat-shaped chrome shroud inside. You can do this by removing your bulb, removing the small screws for the shroud, then finding a way to smash or bend it and remove it - this is irreversible. After, you can install an H4 projector into the housing, align, and tighten down.
• For interior LEDs... Dash gauges, there's a breakdown of lights required over here (link coming soon). Later year dash gauges had on-board LEDs and are not replaceable. REMEMBER: LED lights are polarized. If you install them backwards, they won't light up! If you have one or more not lighting up, try popping out, rotating 180º, and reinstalling.

Seating related info...

• For tall people, you can get some added comfort using the SeatJacker product. Be careful of imitations. It's basically an adapter that kicks the front of the seat up. May or may not be useful for folks with power seats.
• Yes, people have swapped benches for captains chairs, and vice-versa. Yes, it's possible to add power seats into non-power-seat trucks, the harness to make it a mostly plug-and-play experience is still available from Toyota, for now. Sequoia seats will bolt into the DC, not sure about other trucks, but there's a few types... there's a post on that (link)
• Heated seats, available in the DC (I've never seen in AC, anyone know if it's a thing?), is also possible to add-on, but there's a myriad of aftermarket kits you could buy also. The switching is normally done at the center console, but I think I saw there the switches may've become unobtanium recently. Best bet may be finding a donor truck at the junkyard with all the wiring and seat stuff intact.
  
• Seat covers... OEM covers and foams are still available from Toyota but you're looking at $1,000-1,600/seat to do all foams and covers, or $700-900 per seat for OEM covers. There's no "great" aftermarket OEM-quality option out there, Richmond Auto Upholstery, US Auto Upholstery and ther places that sell on eBay are putting out an inferior product. For nice leathers, most go with Katzkin, or just take their vehicle to an upholstery shop, which can be cost effective depending where you are. For cheap cloth covers on your beater, (check this post), Coverking, Covercraft, and Carhartt are two semi-reasonable priced options depending which product you pick.
• Someone has replaced their rear DC seating with Sequoia captains chairs, interesting mod, check that here. No clue if the Sequoia captains chairs will bolt up into the Tundra, but it's highly probably.

Stupid shit you

don't

want

to

do

to a 1st Gen...

• Don't bother with cold air intakes and all the BS aftermarket cold air/oiled filter crap, like what AirRaid, K&N sells. Dyno testing on popular YouTube videos has proven a couple of times that the OEM filter produces more power than these aftermarket kits while filtering particulate more aggressively. I know these kits work on other engines, just not in this case, Toyota tuned out these engines just about to the max. About the only way you're going to eek out feeling more power without using a forced-induction is by way of long-tube headers, or re-gearing.
• Don't install shitty cheapo lifts - brands like Rough Country and Rancho have produced thread after thread from people who've damaged their vehicle or have issues after install. If you're looking to get more than 3" of lift, and you don't have at least $4k-6k to spend on the RCD 6" lift kit or similar (best to avoid the 5.5" RCD kit), a 1GT is probably not the truck for you - maybe go get a Ford, Dodge, or GM? More info in the 'Suspension' section below.

Electrical stuff ... and keys

• Yes, adding power locks and power doors into a non-power truck is possible. Ideally, get pre-loaded donor doors with door harness intact and door cards that match in color, and gut them for parts, or swap doors.
• No, adding a full DC one-piece sliding rear window is not a bolt-in experience, the DC cab rear is different from the AC/RC cab. It may be possible to install the 3pc AC slider into a RC, the cabs are similar dimensionally, but I haven't seen anyone try it yet.
• Aftermarket alarms are the devil, a problem waiting to happen. Doesn't matter how good the brand, most start to fail within 10-15 years. I used to install them for a living. Been there, done that.
• Some dealers, especially in the southwest, gratuitously installed aftermarket alarms from a company named "KARR" at a nice hefty 4-digit upcharge, even when vehicles had the OEM alarm/keyless system installed. These are a constant source of electrical woes for people and were often hackishly installed. The boxes for them are typically found zip-tied up under the steering column area, or shoved into kick panels
• The earlier trucks used Toyota's RS3000 alarm/keyless system. Later models used the RS3200 system. RS3000 is a bitch to program. RS3200 is much easier. RS3000 and RS3200 remotes ARE NOT interchangeable. You can totally program new remotes on your own, there's a thread about it on here.
• RS3000 remotes have an identified issue where the metal contact under the bottom will scrape through the PCB and produce weird results. Just be aware of this. If you're having issues and battery doesn't solve it, crack open the transmitter and inspect the PCB.
• AC/RC trucks don't use transponder/chipped keys (immobilizer). Some later-model DC and Sequoias do. Just something to be aware of if you need to swap keys or can't start the truck.
• These trucks usually don't have a ton of other electrical issues. Hidden corrosion inside the battery/alt cables has happened. Sometimes, a couple thousand miles after timing belt changes, people will have startup issues because the crank position sensor wasn't properly tucked away and gets rubbed by a belt. There's the rodent issues mentioned earlier. Occasionally, water leaks can send water down into the ECM behind the dash, or into the fusebox inside the cab. A lot of drain/vampire issues trace back to aftermarket add-ons whether the owner knows they exist or not - alarms as mentioned earlier, brake controllers, poorly installed trailer receptacles, those are some big ones.

Suspension stuff

• Two basic types of lift

  : Adjustable and Static. "Static" is either non-adjustable, or it requires some disassembly to adjust. One example would be as strut (some struts allow adjusting spring cup height). "Adjustable" would typically be a coilover, which can be adjusted any time, on the fly. Of course, worth saying if you don't know any better, any time you adjust your suspension, you should really get realigned. Your suspension will typically settle a little after install, as you drive around, so always best to settle it in before alignment, or get realigned again later.
• Virtually every lift kit you see online is going to be geared towards DOUBLE CAB 4WD, both for its weight and geometry. DC 4WD is the heaviest of all trucks.
• Once you approach 2.5" - 3.0" of lift with 1GT trucks, you're reaching thresholds of OEM travel and should start purchasing extras to limit or make room for extra travel.

  Examples

  : You'll want new upper control arms (UCA) to more easily hit alignment numbers. You'll want extended sway links to deal with travel. At 3" and beyond, you'll want a diff drop kit if 4WD to deal with axle angle. More than 3" of lift, you're going to want high-angle boots to avoid ripping OEM boots due to travel.
• When buying new upper control arms, There are a few types, know what you're getting, read more here to help you decide. Out back, to avoid lift blocks, consider AAL (add-a-leaf) kit to get an extra 1.5-2.0" lift, and know replacing the entire leaf pack can have unpredictable results, where you're either squatting in the rear, or stinkbugging it in the rear.
• OEM upgraded offroad for suspension on the 1GT was Bilstein. For "leveling" their truck and for actual lifting up to 3" or more, many people will default to Bilstein. The Bilstein 5100s are a very popular choice because you can adjust the spring cup to different heights using circlips/notches to get more or less lift. You could also get a bit deeper into the Bilstein line for more money, and fo with the 5160 or 6110 line.
• If you go with the more popular option, the Bilstein 5100, you have two spring options, either stick with your stock springs, or go with a lifted spring. If you go with a lifted spring, some online vendors will pre-assemble the spring into the strut at an extra charge to make it a bolt-in experience. However, whichever spring option you choose, there are limitations, like, if you plan to re-use your OEM springs, different cabs & drivetrains have set limits that aren't recommended to exceed (see chart here for OEM springs and notch allowances). If you choose to install taller aftermarket springs to get lift, such as any of the spring offerings from ARB/OldManEmu/OME, Dobinsons or Eibach, Bilstein suggests to only use the bottom notch/circlip on the 5100 strut to avoid issues (will probably offer a smoother overall ride). For a true-to-OEM-stock-replacement without lifting, either go with the Bilstein 4600, or get a 5100 and use your stock springs at the bottom circlip/notch.
• If trying to choose a lifted spring on 5100s, you may need guidance. The most popular option we usually see is 5100s with OME springs. It can be daunting which spring to pick, between the 2883, 2884, 2885, 2886, 2887. From ample user experiences on the forum, here's the breakdown to expect: For AC/RC with 2WD, If you want a a touch of lift, but still a rake to the front, go 2883, and if you want to level your truck, go 2884. For AC/RC with 4WD, go 2883 for about halfway between OEM rake and level, or use the 2884 to get near-exactly level, or if you plan to lift the rear 1.5" - 2" after, then go with the 2885. For almost all DC applications, you'll get "sport" rake with the 2884, and level with the 2885, next logical hop if you want to go higher would be the 2887. We've seen a couple of AC/RC people ignore this advice, or fail to hear this advice, and end up with Carolina Squat because they expected OME 2885s would be right for their truck - it's just not the case, and a lot of vendors don't bother to inform their customers.
• You should know that OME/Old Man Emu lift kits (OME strut + OME springs) installed on AC/RC trucks tend to over-lift and cause problems. If OME says their kit is good for 2"-3" of lift, that number is for DC/4WD trucks, so expect your AC/RC truck to definitely exceed 3" lift, and if you have a 2WD, expect it to approach 4" or more. Yes, I'm 100% serious, we've seen it happen here, and both people opted to go with another vendor. With DC trucks, if you're 4WD, you should have no problem. If DC + 2WD, you may get more than what you're expecting, but not nearly as bad as the RC/AC guys, and you may not screw anything up, but be prepared. Note: OME is a great company. I suspect they're only doing this to avoid the DC/4WD and Seqoia owners from getting pissed if they didn't get a full 2.5"-3" from an OME lift kit.
• This was said earlier: Avoid Rancho struts, and maybe all of their stuff, the lower bushings on their 1GT truck kits blow out, fast. Avoid Rough Country kits. They're cheap as hell, and too many people have come here with damage or issues from the kits, which is unfortunate when you can pay a hundred or two more for a solid Bilstein 5100 kit.
• Other things to avoid: Strut spacers --- especially avoid combining them with lift kits. Avoid lift blocks, where possible, AAL is a better option.

After you buy the truck (or sometimes before):

• Register for an account at the Toyota Owner's website: https://www.toyota.com/owners
• Plug your VIN number in and assign it to your account so you can check for open recalls, register yourself as the person to call/email in the event of a recall, and see any dealer-performed service history, including any frame inspections, recall work, regular maintenance, etc. This could give you a good idea of what the truck's had done already, where it lived, how regular the maintenance may've been.

Recalls, TSBs, and annoyances - there are quite a few, here are some big ones that generate threads

• Parts availability: Toyota has discontinued some OEM parts, we've watched some popular ones get the axe just within the last year or two. There are other parts, like a specific "unicorn" brake master cylinder that cost a freaking $1000, and a booster that's also been discontinued. Again, there's a sticky thread for ordering OEM parts. There are also some reputable rebuild kits for serviceable parts that'll help you stick w/OEM.
• Frame recall/replacement is available on earlier model trucks, check this for specifics on eligibility before you think about buying that rusty-framed truck you saw.
• Lower balljoints: Premature failure, a recall covered this. Always replace your lower ball joints with OEM, this is a huge high-stress point for trucks; Toyota over-engineered theirs, 3rd party aftermarket suppliers didn't
• 2WD trucks only: Transmission mount compresses over times, then bolts loosen fall out; Re-tighten bolts with Loctite if all 4 are still intact. There's a TSB but it calls for replacing the crossmember, which many think is overkill.
• RODENTS: A lot of the plastics, wire sheaths, etc. use soy-based plastics. If you're in an area with rodents, or you park outdoors regularly, it's not uncommon for rodents to get in the crawlspace under the intake manifold, where the starter and knock sensors live, and chew up the wiring (no start, knock sensor circuit codes). Likewise, they love nesting on top of the gas tank, and they'll chew up both the wiring, killing the pump (no start), and chewing up the tank tubes/plastics (EVAP codes, EVAP small leak, EVAP large leak)
• Water leaks: Check this thread.
• Paint: The metallic paints use a clearcoat, and it often fails if not taken care of. Non-metallic colors are single-stage, i.e. no clearcoat, and tend to haze over time, but a good aggressive random-orbit polisher with a clearcoat-safe (don't ask) polish will work wonders. Click the link in my picture for an example of what I managed to do with mine. It's possible, ask for tips if you need it.
• Cracked exhaust manifolds - common in the older model 1GT, lends to ticks, rattles, etc.
• Noise transfer to cab, ticking etc. - Steering shaft seal tends to blow out, see here
• Improper brake adjustment causes a lot of issues, including shudders, shimmies, vibrations, see here for details on dialing in. It's typically not the carrier bearing or U-joints. Finding the best carrier bearing can be a bear.
• If your truck won't start, or stutters, it's NEVER the fuel filter.
• That's most of the big ones... maybe more to add later.

Pricing...

• It's different region-to-region, prices in the PACNW and California tend to run the highest, not uncommon to see in the 15k-30k range. Trucks with decently solid frames but 300k+ miles, depending on where you are outside of PACNW can be had as cheap as $3k. There are often Georgia-native trucks on Atlanta Craigslist under $10k with less than 200k miles. Skip rusty frame trucks, there's too many trucks out there with clean frames, it may just take a while to source.
• If seller has no proof timing belt and water pump were replaced within the last 100k/10yrs, you're looking at about $1k in parts and labor to have it done right, with OEM parts.
• Be wary of small dealerships and internet auctions. Due your own due diligence. CarFax is an option to check and see where a vehicle has been registered, so you know 100% if it lived in a salty area. Remember, people drove these trucks on adventures, some of which involved salty roads.

The "what should I look out for" question comes up way too often on the forum. To avoid our regulars re-typing or copy-pasting the same canned responses over-and-over again, after collectively discussing, we decided to make a thread.There's a good chance one of our regulars linked you here for help. If you're new, welcome to, stick around, but be sure to read the very brief Code of Conduct This thread initially started as one giant collective dump of info to get you off on the right foot, covering the super-critical stuff to watch out for when buying a FGT/1GT (aka '1st Gen Tundra'). There's some general things to know, a few quirks and anomalies you'll find, stuff that generates new and repetitive posts. It'll be updated periodically, as needed.When buying or hunting for a 1GT truck, there's one single most-important thing to know:- there are quite a few, here are some big ones that generate threads

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